It shows normal signs of used but the optics are flawlessly. Exposing for the light of the full moon. I’ve been shooting mine on the Z6 with great results when the milkyway core is low . As a general rule then, prime lenses are probably the first place you should begin your hunt for an astrophotography lens. Since, most starters ain’t much bothered about FPS, Z5 will sort of be a win. Effectively this is just autofocus controlled by a different means. Nikon Z50 is Nikon's first mirrorless camera with an APS-C sized sensor. Faster and wider than the Tamron 15-30mm (above), it displays minimal flare, distortion, and vignetting, and remains sharp even at its widest aperture setting. Star tracker is a good recommendation I agree, however you can get away with it if it's bit expensive and use stacking softwares out there. The Nikon 1 J5 featuring backside illumination image sensor is the best option for astrophotography use. I did notice the exposure length matters and from my couple of attempts did see star trails. I appreciate your help in advance. And although fast maximum aperture wide-angle lenses tend to suffer from chronic vignetting, there’s very little of that detectable here. I know it is a full frame lens but what things are to be considered ? electronically simulated manual focus. Following Sony’s lead, in late 2018 both Nikon and Canon released their entries to the full-frame mirrorless camera market. And the fact that it comes with genuine manual focus ( rather than feigned variety offered by most of Nikon’s S series glass) will seal the deal for most astrophotographers. A good astrophotography camera needs to have certain functionalities in order to get you the results you want. What’s more, this lens exhibits only minimal chromatic aberration, and even more importantly there’s little or no coma, especially when used at f/2 and beyond. In short, stick to wider lenses, and star trails will be much less noticeable. For some genres of photography, sharpness is only really a secondary consideration. I blog and publish articles about camera lenses here at lensguide.io. Despite the generally exceptional quality of Nikon’s native Z-mount lenses, choosing a Nikon Z lens for astrophotography is a surprisingly difficult affair. Most lenses tend to be fairly sharp at the center of the image, at least when used at medium apertures; indeed, if a lens can’t manage this basic feat, it’s unlikely that anyone will buy it. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Pordenone (ITALY) October 15th 2020. In any case, it can easily be corrected in post-production. Sigma 14mm with FTZ adapter does not work well, the image at the edges is much worse than in the F system, so this lens cannot be recommended for the Z system. It comes as many different kits at B&H (I actually got the kit with both the 16-50mm and 50-250mm lenses), at Adorama, at Amazon and a… Amazing sharp and great reputation, specially for astrophotography. Hi Rudy, Very nice article. Images produced using the 14mm f/2.4 are supremely sharp from center to edge, even wide open. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Unfortunately, as autofocus doesn’t easily permit precise focusing on tiny objects positioned at infinity (i.e. Why make Z5 with such close similarities to Z6? The sigma Art is a truly great lens glad you liked the article! The only noticeable defect is some barrel distortion, but this is easily fixed at the editing stage. Only here you’ll be using a tripod, so it’s not shaky hands you need to worry about, but instead star trails caused by the movement of the earth. The Nikon Z50 is the first-generation Z-mount DX mirrorless camera with an APS-C sensor. It’s fairly common, but isn’t a problem when using a lens in the way that 95% of photographers will use it. Today, Nikon Inc. announced the next Z series mirrorless camera, the DX-format Nikon Z 50, along with two new companion NIKKOR Z lenses, the NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR and NIKKOR Z DX 50-250mm f/4.5-6.3 VR. As you will take most of your night sky photographs at the lens’s widest aperture setting, and will want to capture sharply defined detail across the entire image, obviously it’s this last kind of lens that you need for doing astrophotography; sharp across the frame, even at its widest aperture. Nikon made … I’em reluctant, because of my Sigma 18-35. Just remember, though, that the Samyang/Rokinon 14mm lacks autofocus, so if you also plan on shooting anything else beyond astrophotography this could easily push the balance back in Sigma’s direction once again. Lenses in Sigma’s ART series have consistently offered great optics at pretty good prices. In this section we break down the main technical points you will want to consider when choosing a Nikon Z lens for astrophotography. Astrophotography is a unique and rather specific genre of photography. And what better way to do so than with Nikon’s top-end range of Mirrorless cameras; the Nikon Z series. Lenses contain numerous pieces of precision glass that must be perfectly aligned in such a way as to capture and focus light with as few reflections, optical errors, and areas of uneven illumination as possible. The Nikon SnapBridge application must be installed on the device before it can be used with this camera. Star tracker is a good recommendation I agree, however you can get away with it if it's bit expensive and use stacking softwares out there. How have you found focusing? However, so many photographers shoot the Milky Way in the same highly formulaic manner, with results that are largely indistinguishable one from the other. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield. Simple. Doing a few image quality comparisons between 4K video from the P950 and the new Nikon D780 or the Nikon Z50, you will see noticeably increased fine detail (in other words, no mushy-ness at all) from the larger sensor cameras. The best combo of settings I've found with this lens are: 15 sec, f/2.8 and ISO1600. You can certainly use this lens for astrophotography, and when you do manage to set focus correctly the results will likely be optically very impressive. However, if an ultra-wide-angle zoom is a “must” as far as you’re concerned, they don’t come much sharper and more coma-free than this one; it’s one of the best ultra-wide zooms currently available, outdoing even many prime lenses (for example, the Sigma ART 14mm below) when it comes to coma performance. Some optical faults are almost inevitable and, while perhaps noticeable, will make little practical difference to the performance of a lens (a degree of flare, for example, is to be expected when shooting into the light). Unfortunately, though, the Nikkor S line suffers from one major defect that will likely deter most astrophotographers. I.e. Do not confuse this lens with the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8, which suffers from much greater quality control problems and is in any case just generally an inferior lens. I have a Tokina 11-16 f2.8 that's supposed to be the cream of the crop as far as cheap, super-wide, fast lenses go, but even with that I can't seem to get a halfway decent star photo without star trails and/or excessive noise. I am planning to buy Rokinon MF 14mm f2.8 designed for Z mount. Although there is no image stabilization, as an astrophotographer you will in any case be using this lens on a tripod nearly all the time. If so, was it any good? The D7200 supports NFC and has longer stills battery life. In effect, astrophotography involves photographing tiny pinpricks of light. Indeed, it’s a lot sharper than Nikon’s F mount version of this lens, particularly in the corners (although as Z-mount lenses generally tend to perform better than their F-mount counterparts when used wide open, this is not entirely surprising). When it comes to astrophotography, the main draw of the Rokinon 24mm is its excellent optics combined with true manual focusing capabilities. In short, the best Nikon Z lenses for astrophotography are mostly not Nikon Z lenses at all. And there’s absolutely no reason not to go with a zoom if you identify one that performs well in this area and fits your needs on all other fronts too. As a general rule, when using a full frame camera you should stick with lenses that are 40mm or wider. Nonetheless, this is an extra expense that you will need to budget for when putting together your Nikon Z series astrophotography kit. In theory, Nikon Z lenses are ideal for astrophotography, in that they are not only extremely sharp, but also tend to be very much free of comatic aberration. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Before going on, here’s a look at the basic specs of the two cameras, with the major differences highlighted in green where one camera has an obvious advantage. But perhaps on a Z50 or a D7500 I should get better results…. Further models were discounted as part of bundle deals, including the Nikon Z50 and D3500, and we're already seeing similar offers this year. However, reflecting its pro-level specs, the 14mm f/2.4 costs considerably more than many other Rokinon primes. Of course, Nikkor S lenses also offer manual operation, don’t they? This item AODELAN Wireless Remote Control for Nikon COOLPIX P1000 and Z50 Accessories,Shutter Astrophotography Replace ML-L7 Nikon Bluetooth Camera Remote Control, Black (ML-L7) AODELAN Wireless Shutter Release Camera Remote for Nikon COOLPIX B600, A1000, P1000, Z50, P950. To be clear, it’s not entirely impossible to focus sharply on stars using AF. I put the new Nikon Z6 mirrorless camera through its paces for astrophotography. Nikon D7500 (DSLR): The D7500 is a good camera for Milky Way photography in the APS-C DSLR range. As ever though, distortion of this kind is a cinch to fix with software anyway. Cheers from Peru. I absolutely love that lens. bigger or fill screen. In fact, it turns out that the best way of shooting astrophotography with Nikon’s Mirrorless models may not be using any of the native Nikkor S lenses at all. It just involves a lot of extra hassle. It all depends on your tolerance levels, but the 14mm f2.8 is unfortunately infamous for quality control issues, with one or several corners being less sharp, wavy lines (mustache distortion)… You may get a good example or a lemon, which is why I did not included it in this list. Of course, 24mm is a longer focal length, so those seeking a wider field of view will either need to sacrifice image quality or spend a little extra money on one of the wider options we look at below. Top 8 Best Nikon Z Lenses for Portrait Photography, Top 8 Best Landscape Lenses for Nikon Z Mount. Nikon is sort of confused. Primary among them is good ISO performance, which needs to be considered on two different points. But let’s just say that this is not a major concern for those who only photograph the sky. Unfortunately though, this is rarely an option that is open to the serious astrophotographer. As sharpness is of the utmost importance for night sky photography, and primes generally perform better in this department, zooms are rarely the serious astrophotographer’s first choice of weapon. And with one or two exceptions, all the Nikon S lenses employ the focus-by-wire system; i.e. If you’ve followed the 500 Rule (see above) to determine the best shutter speed for your camera/lens/subject, and yet still notice what look like star trails in your photos of the night sky, this may in fact be coma. Hi Xavier! Feel free to ask a question, or post a photo taken with your Nikon camera and lens. Unfortunately, though, the Nikkor S line suffers from one major defect that will likely deter most astrophotographers. Meaning that a tracker is only really appropriate when photographing just the sky and nothing else. Sample Images Introduction Format Lens Compatibility Specifications Accessories Unboxing Performance Compare User's Guide Recommendations More Information Nikon Z50 (15.7 oz./446g with battery and card, one SD card slot, $857) and superb Nikon Z 16-50mm DX VR. Is the Nikon Z50 a good starting camera? It also tends to be more evident when shooting at wider apertures, and may clear up once the lens is stopped down by a stop or two. If you still want to get it, make sure you can try several examples or you are able to send it back if needed , Your email address will not be published. Cookies help us deliver our Services. It joins the 24-70mm f/2.8 and the 70-200mm f/2.8 as the third member of the "holy trinity" of f/2.8 maximum aperture lenses. Read on to find out why most Nikon Z lenses won’t cut it for astrophotography, and learn which third-party lenses make the grade instead. Even if to do so does present certain technical challenges (see the Focal Length section below for a full explanation of what those challenges are). But for now the problems caused by Nikon’s use of the focus-by-wire system far outweigh any advantages that Z-mount lenses may otherwise offer the astrophotographer. In short, the ideal astrophotography lens is a truly manual focus lens. very interesting article. First the good news: Nikon’s newly released 20mm f/1.8 S prime for the Z-mount system is an amazingly good lens optically. The company says the camera is designed to attract a generation of users who don't consider themselves to be photographers. Zooms are complicated pieces of optical engineering, and so it’s hardly surprising that manufacturers can’t always maintain the same degree of precision over the entire zoom range. This is a shame though, as its undeniably a great lens, and comes at an ideal focal length for shooting trail-free star-scapes. The Nikkor Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S is a new, fast ultra-wide-angle zoom lens for the Nikon Z-series of full-frame mirrorless cameras. However, although Nikon’s Z system offers a rapidly expanding range of superb quality glass, choosing the right Nikon Z lenses for astrophotography is not as straightforward as you might first imagine. Astrophotography has been around for almost as long as photography itself. In this article, I rank the best lens options for shooting astrophotography on Nikon Z6, Z7, and Z50 cameras. This rule becomes 24mm or wider when using an APS-C sensor camera. If you intend to shoot very wide landscapes at night like a Milky Way or aurora, the more narrow field of view means you won’t be able to expose your images for as much time as with a full frame on equivalent lenses (that is the key point, equivalent lenses) This can always be fixed with a shorter focal length lens though. Nikon has an amazing range of lenses that provide the perfect shot, and are within the budget as well. This is the same lens with a D5600. Yet rapid advances in imaging technology mean that capturing the night sky in stunning detail has never been as achievable as it is today. Designing camera lenses is a challenging job. The Z6 is great for being able to pick up the body mount a lens and hand held focus on a star by zooming in evf before mounting on the tripod which saves so much time recompiling when you are juggling multiple lenses and focal lengths . I bought my Z50 mainly for hiking and travel, and I've been loving it. Lots of work to do to improve though! I also love the idea of exposure preview, I already know that will save me a lot of headache when taking pictures of stuff that likes to run away before I get my settings just right . The only drawback to this solution is that any landscape features that you might want to include in the foreground of your shot will be blurred by the movement of the camera. I have taken astrophotos with my 35mm S, 24-70mm S and 85mm S lenses on my Nikon Z6 and have been able to achieve very good and precise focus in manual mode while zooming to 100% in the electronic viewfinder. The Z50 is a good, but not exceptional, debut for Nikon's Z mount APS-C mirrorless system. Taken individually on their own, none of the above complaints are likely to be total deal-breakers. What’s more, unlike many of the wider focal length models we look at here, barrel distortion is virtually undetectable. Consequently this omission will only be of real concern to you if you also plan on using it to shoot other genres of photography. Thankfully there’s a handy rule for determining which shutter speed you should use in any given situation. My Nikon Z 50 + 16-50 + 50-250mm lens review after using them for 2 months! stars), it is of little use to astrophotographers. So this brings me to my question for any z50 users that may be able to help: have any of you used it for astrophotography yet? Do you have experience of shooting astrophotography with Nikon’s S-series lenses? Amazing Colors and clarity. To recap then, one of the most important attributes of a good astrophotography lens is a fast maximum aperture. But before making your own choice from among those on our list, be sure to read our buyer’s guide below explaining what to look for in an astrophotography lens. And this movement will be more noticeable the longer the focal length of lens. It depends what you shoot, but mostly full frame is a step up. Unfortunately though, the Nikon Z lenses have another problem that makes them even less appropriate for astrophotography. It’s most noticeable when photographing small points of light – such as stars – and will be visible as a kind of flare or trail behind the point of light. In any case, the long exposure times necessary to correctly expose a nighttime scene at a small aperture such as f/16 just aren’t practical for astrophotographers, who are effectively photographing stationary objects (stars) while they themselves are standing on a giant rotating ball (planet Earth). Announced on October 10, 2019, together with two compact DX lenses specifically designed for the camera, the Nikon Z50 packs many attractive features, putting it above entry-level DSLRs like Nikon D3500 and D5600. Or would I be better off going a different direction entirely? New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Nikon’s based this system on firmware v3.0, which brought about updated AF tracking, Face, and Eye-detect AF for humans and animals. Beyond great optics though, one of the primary selling points of this lens for astrophotography is that while the Sigma 40mm comes with highly capable autofocus capabilities, it also features genuine, mechanical, manual focus. And with no infinity stops, your only option is to use autofocus or live view mode. All images published at lensguide.io are either ours, authorized by the photographer, or published under creative commons commercial use license. I've only had it out for star shots a couple of times. Now, astrophotography has been really interesting to me for years, but I never felt like my d3200 was very good at it. So the question is: should I upgrade to full frame or not. Although in itself the type of lens mount you use for astrophotography will make no practical difference to your photos, the fact is that the majority of the most useful lenses for astrophotography are simply not available in native form for the Nikon Z-mount system. This means that some of the rules that apply when selecting a lens for other types of photography have little relevance here. very impressive even in the company of the 14mm art and 24mm 1.4 Samyang . Architecture and astrophotography . But stacked up and viewed in comparison with options such as the Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.4 (above), they might be enough to swing the pendulum away from the Sigma 14mm. Find out where the Z50 wins! I have not experienced the problem you seem to have with the Z mount lenses manual focusing. But for astrophotography, manual operation is generally more advisable. The earth’s rotation isn’t detectable to the naked eye, but if the exposure time is too long, it will clearly show up in a photograph of the night sky as blurred stars. I have both kit lenses, and also acquired the Tokina 14-20mm f/2 Pro DX for astro, with the FTZ. favorite this post Nov 28 Tamron 100-400mm f/4.5-6.3 for Nikon & EXTRAS $620 (Santa Clarita) pic hide this posting restore restore this posting. The Nikon Z50 is a 20.9MP mirrorless camera: the first time the company has put an (unstabilized) APS-C sensor behind its new, larger 'Z' lens mount. mechanical) control of the lens elements. On the downside, the Sigma 14mm is exceptionally big and heavy within its class. Looking for a Nikon D7200 vs Nikon Z50 comparison? With a very fast maximum aperture of f/1.4, though, the ART 40mm goes some way towards overcoming these issues. Perhaps more importantly, though, it is crystal sharp in the center, and not far behind at the corners – even at f/1.4. I'm a mostly outdoor photographer, and I'll often switch between wildlife, flower macros, insects, and landscapes all in one go, and I think the z50+ftz with my current lense selection will be a great upgrade, especially with the kit lenses being pretty good apparently. What’s more, as with all the Nikon Z lenses, the 20mm f/1.8 S is almost entirely free from comatic aberration, thus upping its astrophotography credentials. True, there’s noticeable barrel distortion and vignetting when used at wider apertures. I was looking into a modified Z50 at one point for astrophotography however at the time I don't think there were any intervalometers compatible with it. in the middle of the day, under bright sunshine), but will only become apparent when the lens is used in a particular way. Other optical defects will be totally undetectable under most common shooting circumstances (e.g. the lens is just made that way, so there’s nothing you can do about it other than buying a different model lens.. Alternatively, a particular lens may display coma due to a manufacturing error. Have you been satisfied with the results? Maybe it's the d3200's anti-aliasing filter, maybe it's the sensor, maybe it's some setting that I've missed, maybe it's Maybelline, I'm not sure. Yes, it is an excellent beginning camera and one we believe will be incredibly popular on the market as well. In my tests, all wide-angle lenses with an adapter perform worse, even Nikon 14-24mm. As case in point, Tamron’s 15-30mm zoom (above) is undoubtedly one of the best Nikon Z lenses for astrophotography out there right now – of any kind. Some prime lenses perform relatively poorly on sharpness, whereas some zooms excel. Coma affects off-axis light, meaning that it tends to be more noticeable the further you move away from the center of the image. Unfortunately, astrophotographers don’t fall within that 95%. As they say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. But, if Z6 price goes down further, Z5 will get effected. It is hard to do as accurate focus in centre of frame To minimise the coma . The Nikon Z5 lacks any 120p slo-mo movie modes and also the option of recording 10-bit video externally via its HDMI output, which makes it less … The Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 is a fast, well-priced, and solidly-built wide angle lens, offering a field of view that is ideal for astrophotography on full frame cameras. If you’re using any of the PSAM exposure modes, set the camera’s exposure manually or use program or shutter or aperture priority. I would highly recommend a star tracker. In 2017 Nikon finally woke up and gave their shooters a full frame and circular fisheye zoom lens that many of us had been hoping for: the Nikon 8-15mm FX AF-S f/3.5-4.5E ED Zoom Fisheye. First, the camera needs to have a high ISO range, that way you can increase the sensitivity of the sensor in the absence of light. which has a low f/number). The camera’s compact and lightweight body makes an excellent companion for casual shooting of the stars, and despite the smaller size, its image sensor size is more than adequate to produce beautiful images of the starry sky. While that remains true with the Sigma 40mm f/1.4, its hardly what you would call a “cheap” lens either; approaching as it does the cost of one of Nikon’s native models. But until relatively recently, getting good results in astrophotography required access to some very serious photographic kit. What’s more, it’s also one of Sigma’s most expensive lenses. It’s kind of similar with astrophotography. For night skies the combo does really well. While it’s true that S lenses come with a manual focus ring, this is actually what is known as “focus-by-wire;” a system that doesn’t provide genuine manual (i.e. Higher low light sensitivity and better noise management on full frame sensors will get you get cleaner, brighter images. Coma can be caused by an inherent fault in the design of a lens. Indeed, nearly all the Z-mount lenses perform badly in this department. This will add the 1.5x crop that using a DX format Nikon DSLR or mirrorless camera would have done, giving you extra reach. I find focusing the 14mm art best using a star in very corner of frame Until coma Shrinks away . The G2 improves upon this already excellent performance, spreading the sharpness right up into the corners. As ever, prime lenses tend to have the upper hand over zooms when it comes to image sharpness. The best tactic for astrophotography, then, is to use a fast lens, so as to keep exposure times to a minimum and ISOs low. The Nikon 50mm s is also ok but needs to be manually focused like you say whenever camera is turned off . Got the Z50 recently and am planning to give astrophotography a try. This is the holy grail of astrophotography lenses. The Auto Focus Chip every now and than will miss or not function and you hafto reset the lens on the mount. Nikon Z50 + 16-50 lens kit, 2 OEM batteries, SmallRig plate, More $750 (Santa Clarita) pic hide this posting restore restore this posting. The compact and lightweight Nikon Z 50 w… The Z 24-50mm f/4-6.3 is a brand new standard kit lens for the equally new Nikon Z5 full-frame mirrorless camera. In part this is precisely because it is so exceptionally sharp, despite being a zoom. And sadly the difficulty of making minor, precise adjustments to focus remains exactly the same as with regular autofocus. The new Nikon Z 50 takes full advantage of Nikon’s larger Z mount, providing creators of all types with the most innovative optical system for superior image and video quality. Hi! But it’s important to keep in mind that this piece of advice is only a guide, not a hard and fast rule. I’m a travel photographer from Paris, France. The Nikkor Z DX 16-50mm lens has a super-slim retracting design and performs very well for a kit lens, while the Nikkor Z DX 50-250mm f/4.5-6.3 VR is extremely good for a low-cost telephoto. And with the exception of the very expensive Noct 58mm – which is in any case unsuitable for astrophotography due to its longer focal length (see below) – Nikon Z-mount lenses do not currently offer this capability. The lens is well built and fully weather sealed. And hopefully Nikon will eventually resolve this problem by adding a few more true manual focus lenses to the range. But this is unsurprising in a lens of this focal length. I did not test any of… Will it be a good choice for it? Trickier to find are lenses that are not only sharp in the center of the frame, but also at the edges. Downloadable resources for the Nikon Z50: A Deeper Understanding of the Histogram Pixel Problems Errors and Omissions in Mastering the… And, overall, the focusing on this camera is excellent. It is very critical on focus or coma will grow quickly . As a result, for landscape photographers fast maximum aperture is rarely a selling point. Instead, turning the focus ring sends an electronic signal to the lens motor, which moves the elements for you. However, there are also other important considerations to keep in mind when choosing a Nikon Z lens for astrophotography, and they in turn cannot be considered in total isolation from maximum aperture. Hi , May I suggest you Have a look at the new tamron 35mm 1.4 sp . For wide angle, landscape astrophotography, a full frame camera is going to get better results in general. Indeed, the 40mm f/1.4 is undoubtedly one of Sigma’s sharpest prime lenses. Central sharpness is very impressive even wide open, and while there’s a degree of softness towards the corners, performance is nonetheless very good even here. Thank you. Read on to learn what these factors are and how they affect the apertures you can get away with using when photographing the night sky. So an opportunity to move away from the predictable point of view provided by an ultra-wide-angle lens will likely appeal to more creative and adventurous night sky photographers. By following the release of the Nikon Z5 mirrorless camera, PrimaLuceLab announce availability of the Nikon Z5 Full Spectrum, the special version that allows to capture astronomical, infrared, ultra-violet, and traditional photography all with one camera! Here's some samples. Lensguide.io is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Best Nikon camera 2020 at a glance: Nikon Z6 The sharper and better defined those pinpricks are, the prettier they tend to look. Namely, once you do find the right focus point, you better pray that your camera battery doesn’t run out, or that you don’t need to turn your camera off for any other reason. In effect this will make the star look like a shooting star or a comet (hence the name “coma”). Comatic aberration is a kind of optical imperfection, a misalignment caused when rays of light entering a lens don’t refocus to a perfect point. This being the case, unless you are willing to put up with the fiddly focusing and frequent missed shots caused by focus-by-wire operation, you will likely want to make use of third-party lenses such as those listed above. Can you get a decent milky way shot with it? Hi, I had been considering a Fuji X-T30 but before that I had demo'd a Z50. But skyscapes are another matter entirely; here a lens’s light-gathering abilities count like nothing else. Haven't checked out the 500 rule yet. Z5 is gonna kill both Z50 and Z6, especially due to the dual card. Meanwhile certain aspects of lens design and construction that are of only minor importance in other areas of photography become fundamental when photographing the night sky. Not a good solution. We would love to hear your tips and opinions in the comments section below. It's not the camera that will make the biggest difference though. Coma is one such error. The system is quite robust, accurate, and well implemented. So if you’ve been discouraged by bad experiences with, or reviews of, either of those two lenses, don’t let them put you off the 24mm F/1.4. I own Nikon z50 and I am really interested in doing sky Photography. I did notice the exposure length matters and from my couple of attempts did see star trails. Indeed it’s undoubtedly one of the sharpest lenses in its category. Note that this lens is superior to the Samyang 14mm f/2.8, and even the 14mm f/2.4 (below); both of which are less sharp and reportedly suffer from fairly frequent quality control issues. Here I review one of Nikon’s new mirrorless models, the Z6, tested solely with astrophotography in mind. Given that the Nikkor S line of lenses are generally excellent, this may come as something of a surprise to learn. I recently also started getting into astrophotography, and I'm now going down that rabbit hole. Nikon aims this camera to be the ideal choice for traveling photographers who want a lightweight yet capable solution, and that is … Keep in mind that the Rokinon/Samyang 24mm f/1.4 is manual focus only; an advantage for shooting the night skies, but less appropriate for many other genres of photography. Your email address will not be published. The stars just don't show up as well as they seem to for other people with other cameras. And I haven't had a chance to try to get the galaxy core yet. Same settings. Please abide by the rules of our community. This invariably requires the use of an adapter; do not expect a Nikon F-mount lens, such as the ones from Samyang, Tamron, and Sigma that we’ve recommended  here, to work on your Z6 or Z7 right out of the box. Almost no coma effect or chromatic aberration, Maximum aperture slower than on comparable prime lenses, More costly than many other Samyang/Rokinon lenses. If you’ve ever used a telephoto lens handheld, you’ll have discovered that a longer focal length lens is harder to hold steady than a wide-angle lens; increasing the risk of camera shake. In which case you should send the lens back to the manufacturer and demand a new, coma-free, one. Using a faster ISO will of course permit shorter shutter speeds, but this also comes with increased digital noise. I have a question for you. On top of which it lacks image stabilization (but you’re not going to be shooting the night sky handheld anyway, right?). Performance in this department only improves as the diaphragm is stopped down to f/2.8, where overall sharpness and contrast are truly amazing from edge to edge. While it is possible to use longer focal length lenses than this to photograph the night sky, doing so will require the use of a “tracker”; an electronic rig that moves the camera to compensate for the movement of the Earth. Because if you do, you’ll only have to start all over again, as in the meantime the camera will have reset focus for you. I'd love to hear how your astrophotography gone so far! If you break it down by type of astrophotography image in 2020, then you find the most commonly used cameras are: For nightscapes and landscape astrophotography: Canon EOS 6D and Nikon D750 For deep sky astrophotography: ZWO ASI1600MM Pro and the Canon EOS 6D For planetary astrophotography: ZWO ASI174MM If you want to read the full results of this analysis, see RMG … However, APS-C camera owners could also just about get away with using Rokinon 24mm for shooting the night sky too, where it will provide a focal length equivalent to 38mm on full frame. Using the SnapBridge App System Requirements Android 6.0, 6.0.1 or later, 7.0 or later, 8.0 or later, 9.0 or later, 10 iOS 11.4+ A device with Bluetooth 4.0 or later (i.e., a device that supports Bluetooth Smart Ready/Low Energy) is required. But there are less frustrating (and indeed cheaper) ways of achieving the same ends. Recommended lens: Tokina AT-X 11-20mm f/2.8 AF Pro DX. Beginners or experts can choose from wide angle lens to capture more sky or choose a lens that is fast (i.e. So far, I'm really impressed with the results. I've got a Z50 and the Tokina 11-20. I was just re-reviewing the images from the Z50 and noting how much I liked them: the color, detail, and sharpness, and that was with the 16-50 kit lens. We are a community that discusses all things Nikon cameras and lenses. The Samyang / Rokinon 14mm f2.4 is a much better lens. How long an exposure you can get away with before you start to see star trails (motion blur) depends on a number of different factors, such as sensor size, lens focal length (see below), and even the direction in which you point your camera. I got mine at B&H. Clearly then, lens sharpness is extremely important to the astrophotographer. But as mentioned above, for astrophotography it’s almost everything. Z50 should handle astro just fine. Not at all good for making minuscule adjustments. Nikon Z50: Expeed 6: 23.5×15.7: 20.9: 4.22: 100-51200 : 2019 Q4: 0.446: EN-EL25: Nikon 1 V3: Expeed 4: 13.2×8.8: 18: 2.51: 160-12800: 55%: 2014 Q1: 0.381: ... * Best ISO is the recommended ISO value for astrophotography according to a study published at DSLR Astrophotography ** QE is the Quantum Efficiency of unmodified camera. $300. To be clear, autofocus performance is excellent. The good news is that Nikon’s FTZ adapter works very well and doesn’t result in any compromise in the performance of these lenses. Thankfully though, the focus ring provides smooth and precise action and the lens also features a physical aperture ring, making it a pleasure to use. Nikon lens provide you with a better chance if you are planning to get some fantastic astrophotography shots. Because of it I decided not to buy the 14-30mm but to get a sigma art 14-24mm instead. I got a Sigma 18-35 1.8 mounted on a Nikon d7000 (APS-C). Press J to jump to the feed. Cheers Rob. It’s cheaper but can’t beat the low-light performance of the Nikon mirrorless Z50. Still, it’s nice to have the 4K 30p video, and it’s nice that it approximately covers the full-width of the sensor. Hope you find them helpful, don’t hesitate to leave a comment! The bad news, however – at least as far as astrophotographers are concerned – is that manual focus is not the 20mm S’s strong point. Why release Z50? Unfortunately, my D7000 does not allow me to take asto photos at high ISO. When it comes to lenses for landscape photography, achieving a deep depth of field will be most photographer’s main priority. Of course, at 40mm the Sigma is rather long for an astrophotography lens. Press release: Nikon Z5 Full Spectrum for astronomy, UV and IR photography. Nikon F Mount Lens to Nikon z50 Z5 Z6 Z7 Mirrorless Camera Adapter "US Seller" $12.93. Additionally there’s almost no chromatic aberration, and in terms of coma the performance is nothing less than spectacular; thus sealing the Rokinon 14mm f/2.4’s credentials as an outstanding lens for astrophotography. Haven't checked out the 500 rule yet. A great improvement over the widely-detested focus-by-wire system used in many modern lenses – including most of Nikon’s Z-mount offerings. In theory, Nikon Z lenses are ideal for astrophotography, in that they are not only extremely sharp, but also tend to be very much free of comatic aberration. True, if you ever point the lens directly at a brick wall you’ll be sure to notice some quite heavy barrel distortion. We’ll look at this problem in the next section. All single exposures. The lens is manual focus only, but handles very nicely via a smooth and well-dampened rubber focus ring, making it well suited to astrophotography. ... Nikon F Mount Lens to Nikon z50 Z5 Z6 Z7 Mirrorless Camera Adapter "US … $620. The Nikon Z 24-50mm f/4-6.3 features a button-free retractable design that is extended simply by rotating the zoom ring. They are a pain at first to polar align but will drastically improve your night sky photography. But when we say that a lens is sharp, this can actually mean a variety of different things. Or rather, there are several fantastic options available for astrophotography, it’s just that they tend not to come from Nikon at all, but instead from third-party manufacturers. Amazing sharp and great reputation, specially for astrophotography. Still, the optics are also on a par with Nikon’s offerings. Photo submissions must include the camera and lens used to take the shot. Got the Z50 recently and am planning to give astrophotography a try. The Sigma ART 14mm f/1.8 is a super sharp ultra-wide-angle prime lens that, while not entirely coma-free, nonetheless performs excellently on this front. Anyone familiar with the first iteration of the Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 will know that it was a very sharp lens at the center of the image. Rarer still are those lenses that are sharp from edge to edge even when used at their widest aperture. I've been debating, and debating, and debating some more, and I think I'm finally about to pull the trigger on a z50 as an upgrade for my aging and abused d3200 (poor thing). I always put it off and use a tripod, Indeed, IBIS is better set to OFF for astrophotography . Many cameras today - even entry-level models - have native ISO ranges up to 12800, 25600, and even hi… Loved it.