Regards, Paul. I have worked WITH Intuition for the past 20 years and fit thousands of liners into Ski Boots, Snowboard Boots, and High Altitude Climbing Boots. Grab the tab and pull and both sides of the boot are tightened. (i noticed your concern about the weight on previous models). Here is a great review on a friends blog on the Spantik and the Scarpas that is priceless. Health Info; Altitude; Using Oxygen; How to avoid getting cold hands; Further Everest Info; Expedition Top Tips; Skills. These boots are great for climbing the normal routes on 6000m trekking peaks in Nepal in the Fall and Autumn climbing seasons. about the gloves we are using primaloft gloves for our touring in austria which cover -18 degrees. However given that you will make this trip at least 3 times on an expedition, it’s worth considering, as weight saved on your feet is very significant. The inner and outer boots are configured in such a way that the inner slips in and out with great ease … no need to be standing up and pushing all your weight down to get the inner into the outer. As for buying over the internet, you’d only want to be picking them up in KTM and not trusting the Nepal shipping. Really nice discussion out here, thanks for the tips Paul! The following observations were made concerning this item. This is the daily blog from this climb. If you can’t use thick socks, then you could consider some hotronic electric footwarmers to compensate without adding bulk. I have had frostbite on one foot and lost half the length of my toes. Their soles are very fragile so you can’t really wear them without crampons on. It’s just not worth it. So I’d buy new boots. Climb Everest with 6 times Everest summiteer Tim Mosedale, Climb Mount Everest By The South Col Route, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~. You could use Berghaus Yeti Gaiters over the top. know if a UK 8/ EU 42 of the Asolo boots would be right for me? Hi Jill, Thanks for your message and particularly the support you gave us during the climb. Mons would take longer, putting aside the problem with lack of air. As to what boots would be best, that’s tricky. Olympus Mons are overkill for that altitude in Nepal, assuming you are going within the normal climbing months. If you put them into your gloves where they get even less air, before they are really warm, then they will never be very hot. I also wonder if I can start doing so light walk and exercise even though all my toes are still numb ? Super insulated, this double boot combines a lightweight Vibram ® PE outsole, reflective insoles and dual-density, ventilated foam liner to provide best-in-class insulation. Perhaps they have improved this in the new model, but it still says that that the upper is made out of cordura. For 80 years La Sportiva has been producing innovative footwear and La Sportiva is looking forward to the next 80 years. Good boots, the right socks (not too thick, correct size so they don’t bunch up), and heated insoles will prevent this from happening again. I ice climb and also have plans for Rainer & Aconcagua – maybe more depending on how those trips go…, Any advice is appreciated!! Do you know how they performe compared to the Guide/Baruntse? I see you haven’t had a response yet……here’s two cents worth: When I climbed Lobuche I wore plastics (Scarpa Vega). On that note I have tried the Grivel G12 and the Petzl Vasak crampons and the Vasak provides a very nice fit indeed. and “don’t be stupid dude. impresive and enriching… I’d like your opinion on the scarpa phantom 6000. I am allowing for foot swelling at alt, so I am trying to leave some room also for this if it occurs. A place to keep our climbing blogs and other projects. Debating what crampon bindings to get. The gate will open and allow the rope to go in. Hire boots are available in Thamel, but they are often thoroughly used and abused so the insulating qualities are significantly reduced. Your website is such a great resource of valuable and interesting information…thank you! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. It’s almost like a compressed closed cell foam – if you walk on rocks you will quickly ruin the tread, so you need to be very careful. They have always been a very light boot too. If you were worried about your physical ability up high, I think LaSportiva is a good choice, however do minimize the time that you wear them by using other boots down lower on the mountain. Around its perimeter an outward-facing cliff ascends as high as 10 km (6 miles) above the surrounding area. Very happy to share that information. I’d definitely stick with the Spantik or Baruntse for Ama Dablam because I think you’ll want the extra warmth that these boots provide over the Nepal GTX. … 5 5 out of 5 stars from 1 reviews 5 1. In 2007, Paul returned to climb Mt Everest after missing out on reaching the summit by 100 metres the previous year. Also Sportiva places the G2 between the Spantiks and Olympus Mons. Wool or fleece ski hat. The other issue is that any mountaineering boot has a limited lifespan before the insulation get compacted rendering it less effective, so you’d be running the risk by using it on Aconcagua that it wouldn’t work well when you really need it on a colder mountain. Also, the gaiter only has one zip- but it did look stronger than the millets smaller zip. Paul, I have also been searching for the right boot to climb Aconcagau in. I take it that you don’t want to consider the La Sportiva, which will be lighter again (Olympus Mons Evo is 2.26kg for the pair compared with approximately 2.7kg for the Scarpa Phantom & Millet Everest GTX)? Welcome home (belated) and great to see more posts coming through. Batura and Spantiks are sure the way to go.”. Subject to a few considerations (below), I think it’s a good idea to use different boots on the lower parts of the mountain. As a general rule as boots are getting lighter, lifespans are getting shorter. The difference with the super gaiter is that the sole of the boot is fully exposed as opposed to gaiters such as the Forty Below K2 or Purple Haze models so commonly used on Denali etc… You may want to do a search on http://www.cascadeclimbers.com or http://www.summitpost.com tons of info for Aconcauga there as well. After doing some research on what are the best high altitude boots I have chosen two boots. La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, Scarpa 8000m. Dear Nabs. Thinner wool or synthetic liner socks. Although mine are cracked, they still are going strong and haven’t fallen off yet. For that price, I’d buy a pair, try them out in Winter and see how they go. Then tie in your ascender to the remaining end at one of the two holes at the bottom of the ascender, adjusting the rope length to be at about a full arms length. In fact nearly half the the weight of the Millet boot. Have you tried the Millet Everest boots on? Thanks for suggestions Paul. Cheers, Paul. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube S has the added advantage of a BOA system that has replaced traditional lacing making adjustment at altitude far easier, but at a premium price! The main protagonists are La Sportiva (Olympus Mons Evo), the Millet (Everest) and the Scarpa (8,000ers*). Thank you. The only issue that I have found was that the anti bot plates break easy if you walk on rock in the cold. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/Vega-HA-SCA-VEGAHA. I’d recommend that you consider La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX which would be suitable and only weigh 1000 grams each. If it goes over and is too slimline then it may well compress the down and create a cold lower leg which, in turn, will cause less warmth to flow to the foot. Have you been on any other high altitude mountains since Elbrus? The Karrimor sits too high on my shoulders). Do you make your own (if so how and what do you make it out of) or do you buy a sort of ready made one and just attach a carabiner and what carabiner do you use? There are no specific women’s fit 8000 metre boots. I have been looking at the Asolo AFS800 but dont about the fit or much about the boot. I have ASOLO AFS 8000 boots which I use for sub 8000m climbs and these are really warm, although at 2.5kg for the pair there are lighter boots available. However they are not as warm, although this extra warmth might only be needed on summit night and could easily be countered with Hotronics (see previous post).). The Millet claims a wait of 2640 for size 8 and the La Sportiva 2520 for non-specified size (I suspect for size 9, … Ski-mountaineering boots. I really don’t have any trouble with climbing boots on this foot, so I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend you go for a larger size. Good luck. Do you think the boot will be warm enough even without Hotronic footwarmers? Looking for a pair of boot right now, but i am stuck with the info all around the web. Millet Alpinist or Nepal Evos are great. It’s a really good point you make about sizing boots. Rebecca. You certainly don’t need heavy mountaineering boots for this section. Depending on the exchange rate you would only be saving a small amount of money, so I probably would buy them in Belgium if I was you, and that way you know that you have them and in your size. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Mountaineering Boot. -Bjarne. toes far from end of boot) and an amount of heel lift that would make any front pointing not much fun. There seems to be NO online reviews of them. However if I was climbing in the Winter or I was climbing a route that didn’t see much sun, then perhaps a different boot choice might be prudent. Is it right to go half a UK size up? I actually tried out La Sportiva G2 SM and it felt much, much better on my feet than both Scarpa and Spantiks. But if I wasn’t limited to those choices, I’d probably actually go with something a bit lighter from La Sportiva – ask at your local retailer. Paul thanks for the information once again. The Olympus Mons Evo contains the most advanced features in the field of technology applied to footwear production. I would only consider La Sportiva Olympus Mons or Millet Everest for this. Nepal Evos are one-day only boots in cold weather because they don’t have an inner-liner that you can take out and dry at night. 'Plastics' like the Scarpa Omega or Vega, preferably with a high altitude rated inner boot for warmth (eg for Elbrus). Paul. Some people prefer thicker socks to reduce friction or wool socks for added warmth. Thanks. i also have a pair of RBH design socks which have had very positive reviews from climbers around the world, however hadn’t had a chance to test them in extreme cold temps either. What about weight, ease of use, durability, etc.? I’m not quite sure I follow your post, but I think you are suggesting that Nepal Evos are not good above 5000m. I ordered a pair of La Sportiva from the UK and they fit too snugly. 2) I would imagine no warranty since they operate under Mammot now. Or if anybody else has some feedback it would be much appreciated? Experiment at home with different types of socks to see which fit you, and your boot, best. I can’t find an Alpine 35/45L backpack that fits properly. Thank you! I do have a wide foot and so was favouring the Millet from the reviews I have read. (we want to book a tour just with us 2), greetings from very snowless austria! Obviously this makes the going much easier for you up to C2, but it means that your heavy mountaineering boots have to be carried up and then down when you are finished the expedition. Cheers. I have sought advice from a few locations and am looking for a consensus. But it does make your feet feel warmer, and keep the boot dry, although I tend not to worry so much about this now that I always use hotronics. I’d concur with the poster above, however I’d not try to use the same boot into EBC as through the icefall. I was woken at 04.15 local time by the noise of a huge avalanche. But if I was to go again and climb on the same schedule I would use lighter boots up to C2 (talking about Nepal side) and then use something better up high. It’s quite difficult to compare like for like as it partly … http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1138 Personally I’d want something a little more supple than this, but that’s just personal preference. Once you were on the glacier, the Olympus Mons would be fine so perhaps a lighter pair of hikers could see you in and out. Interesting to read the the zipper failed on your Olympus Mons boots too. I have a Euro size 45 1/3 and in normal shoes I take a 43. In fact just before I got to the Hillary Step I noticed my feet getting colder, and I checked the batteries and they had run out, so I changed to a new set. But, importantly, they are simply superior. By removing or adding thin or thick layers you can regulate your temperature according to whether you are working hard, standing still at a belay, resting for lunch or whether the weather has changed and it is getting warmer or cooler. newsletter and acknowledge your consent to receive email communications from La Sportiva N.A. We want to climb Huascaran alpine style and use them in the winter in the alps… Thanks! The Spantik http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html, Scarpa 6000 http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/its-back-scarpa-6000-dbl-boot-and-2.html, Scarpa Phantom Ultra http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html, The Baruntse http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/05/la-sportiva-baruntse-revisted.html. Also what are size comparisons for UK sizes to US? I have a question regarding the Raichel expedition boots. I have Asolo8000 boots, which are not bad. elbrus yet but I know for sure that mountain has a reputation of being among the coldest baddest mountains on the planet; not technical, just cold as fuck. The new Everest GTX boots are only about 2700 grams per PAIR, so now that they are lighter, would that make them more suitable for something like Aconcagua? I did plan to buy some Millet’s, but I am finding it difficult to locate some in the Uk. What type of training did you do locally for this climb? Hi Mario. Up high these take a long time to heat up and at 8000m it’s at least 45 minutes. Too risky in the event of it failing (see the picture on this blog post for a La Sportiva zipper that failed.) Rab Expedition Slipper - Adventure Peaks. The Olympus Mons Evo, however, has a personalized lacing system that works. So what do you think would be a lightest combo for me? This is my first time using a commercial group or any type of guiding (always liked to do it on my own) but also first climb in Himalaya — so should be an different experience I’m rather looking forward to. Both the new Scarpa Phantom Guide and the 6000, their new double boots, are fantastic and on pare without he LS Spantik and LS Buruntse but will fit a wider range of people better. On Everest I used Millet Everest III boots. I’m from South Africa and I’m battling to find a pair of boots for myself. I’ve used both these boots and the Millet Everest boots and prefer the Olympus Mons. Ive heard Shonas has a good selection and had Koflachs for hire. But the ones you suggest would be fine. The commentary on the brands are great but the procedures on what worked for you is just what some of us are looking for. 'Triple-Boots' for 8000m or very cold peaks (eg Cho Oyu, Everest, Denali) such as Millet Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 800. Kaspar. If you did take the Baruntse boots, you might also need another pair of lightweight gaiters to stop snow from entering. He is very knowledgeable and will be able to give you another, more qualified opinion. I know this isn’t really answering the question, but having had frostbite and lost toes, I’d be very wary about taking anything other than top of the line boots on a mountain line Denali. I actually emailed LaSportiva about their smallest sizes and they said they won’t be available until later in the winter…i wonder how “easy” it’s going to be to try them on however i completely agree it’s worth getting them. Personally I just feel the latter seems too heavy (in weight at least) for this mountain?? bless you for your patience answering a myriad of boot questions! I tried on a Scarpa Vega/Inferno in a 12.5UK and it was to small and basically all the suppliers here in S.A have told me to find a boot on the internet because they have nothing for me. I’ve been climbing in europe, caucas, kirgistan (never above 5500 -but sometimes in winter) and been using either a light weight la sportiva (k4) or my old kofalch’s. Im on Everest 2010 and am planning to take my favorite comfy Koflachs Verticals (super wide feet) for the lower part and have purchased some new “Intuition” high alitude liners from Canada, which are meant to be super warm, and…. Special offers and product promotions. You can always take off layers elsewhere on your body if you are too hot. Can I swim in 55 F swimming pool at the gym? I have a generic foot and I wear a US size 12 for all my shoes and boots. With 45 minutes to 1 hour before we leave, I open the chemical hand warmers I plan to use inside my gloves. Take some chemical handwarmers with you for your Island Peak Summit day. We are climbing cho oyu in april 2009 and i was goiing to buy millet boots in belgium the price is about 550euro and as you sayed you now stores in kathmandu maybe i could buy them there already with internet is this possible Best regards Yves PS Sorry if my english is not so good. I want to climb Huascaran and I’m thinking about buying a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guide; they are similar the new phantom 6000 but without removeable inner boot (like the La Sportiva Batura). With boots, however, this isn’t really an option. If you want to make the climb easier for yourself, find something thats reasonably light, because weight off your feet counts for a lot. The reason why I mention this in particular is that I have encountered quite a few people who have had to cut away at the side of the heel on their Everest Millets to enable their crampon heel clip to fit properly. Learn how your comment data is processed. long time no writing here – everybody touring on mountains . It sounds to me like you are going to just have to buy the largest size you can get your hands on and then hope for the best. You won’t need climbing boots (like Nepal EVO). I also had to buy longer bars for them to be able to fit my size 45 Millet Everest boots too. A simple failure with a boot up high would at best end your expedition, or at worst have far greater consequences. Its not versatile enough. Soaking your legs and feet in warm water (40C) is excellent and highly recommended. searching for some higher elevation mountaineering boots, i’m currently facing some interesting challenges. My alternative is the sportive spatiks with purple hayze over booties, Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated Craig. Having said that, these boots tend to be a bigger fit than you would otherwise wear for other activities so you may well find that any of the brands and models will fit you with plenty of wiggle room. In which case it is better to go for 8000 m boots like the Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, Phantom 8000 etc. They fit my feet better (the most important consideration), they are not nearly as bulky, and they allow me to do more technical climbing. If there are blisters, that’s a good sign, but don’t prick them. LaSportiva also has really poor customer support service and the Olympus were costing quite more for me than the Scarpa’s (cost wise). How did you go, Could you find any information on them and how they hold up and or compere to other brands. http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/learn_climbing_knots.asp, http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Footwear/Mountain-Boots/Vega-HA-SCA-VEGAHA, http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1138, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/its-back-scarpa-6000-dbl-boot-and-2.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/scarpa-phantom-ultra.html, http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html. These are constructed with inner boot, shell and super-gaiter. I do have a question, but it’s not about boots. Gearhead Pick. Not so with the Olympus Mons … the heel section is narrow enough to make sure that it won’t compromise the fit of your crampon (having said that you still need to check boot crampon compatibility BEFORE going to the mountain because you might have crampons that I haven’t managed to access and check their fit). La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo; Millet Everest Summit GTX; Foot Care. But they are probably warm enough and if you are experienced with using crampons, then you are unlikely to step on them. I don’t know about the price, but they look like a well made boot with some clever design features. I like the gear from Rab (UK) and Feathered Friends (Seattle). And ‘Voila!’ the laces are done up and tidied away. Some lightweight polypropylene gloves are very handy too for cold mornings. Once above 6700m the Trango boots simply aren’t warm enough and I switch into my La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots. Press enter for more information. I will probably get the MIllet since they fit … Hi Paul, Any caomparitive suggetions for Mono Evo & Scarpa Phantom for Summit, or any thing better. I was going to write about down suits and jackets, however I started writing about boots and it ended up taking a whole update so I’ll write about the down gear next. Cheers, Paul. Thanks, Peter. Regards, Paul. Check it out! Hi Quang, I’d advise against using Koflachs on Everest. -Bjarne. La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Yellow Black. Some people I know have used La Sportiva One Sport Evo boots – the same ones you would use on Everest. Hi. It’s the go-to model for mountaineers looking to stay warm in extreme places like Denali’s West Buttress, Mount Everest, and Antarctica’s Mount Vinson. Two Athletes/Climbers I have worked with have summited Mt. I’d recommend this if you can, with the socks that you are likely to be wearing. I noticed that the latest La Spotiva Olympus Mons has a velcro cover over the gaiter zip, which makes me much happier. So is there such a boots or I must buy two boots one for each .my foot size43/44 so should i buy boots 45 it is enough ?! Next. What about the Millet Alpinist GTX. But I’ve heard that you’re supposed to go one size bigger with plastics. I too am from sunny SA (Western Cape) and I will trying for Elbrus in June this year. Paul. The way I actually assemble it, is get all the knots done and adjusted, then tape, then trim. Hi Birte, I’d go for a size 42.5 or 43 if you are normally a 41. Please feel free to add your voice to any posts that I have made where you think I’ve made a mistake or the advice could be improved. When I go to Everest/Lhotse, ... I’d like to try the Millet Everest boots but right now there is no point in having another set of boots unless one set fails, which is unlikely given the limited action high altitude boots see. How many sizes bigger than your actual foot size did you go? Everest Base Camp; Courses. I know many people who have had to turn around because of cold feet, when otherwise the conditions were perfect. Electric warmers (Hotronic) are much better. would be nice to have some infos from your experience, thanks. You can CUSTOM FIT them into existing boots you love, or insert into any new boots you purchase. On 23 May 2007, exactly a year to the day later, he reached the summit. been having cold feet and thinking of something that could keep my my feet warmer while climbing in the winter: either l’s Baruntse (that are 2400g) or Batura (but I dont like the zipper and I heard drying them is problematic). I noticed that your gear list included Hotronic foot warmers. For me, I am happy with my Millet Everest boots, despite their weight. Hope this helps. There are some really great materials that have been used sensibly to create warmth where necessary but still keeping the volume down by not having the boot too over spec’d. No recommendations for any dealers I am afraid. Millet Everest Summit GTX - Adventure Peaks. La Sportiva Olympus Mons, dbl boots part 4 The last of the blogs on currently easy to acquire (at least in North America) dbl boots. Hi Yves, Thanks for your comments and good luck for Cho Oyu. Realise i am going off the subject of boots but can anyone suggest a very warm down parka jacket for denali/everest. I can recommend Asian Trekking (www.asian-trekking.com) as a good agency for EBC and Island Peak. If you look into Elbrus and the way the most people climb it, you’ll see that it’s not a lengthy expedition with multiple days camping in tents on the snow. Millet Everest Summit GTX I assume that you have seen a vascular specialist to confirm the extent of the frostbite? any agency you could recommend for the trek and summit. I think the Scarpa 6000 looks good and would be warm. Like the Everest Millet (reviewed elsewhere) the boot is warm. Re going back into the mountains, you’ll probably find that your feet will forever be more sensitive to the cold and you’ll need to be very careful in the future. The boot and the inner boot looked more advanced than the Millet, and the bottom grip looked/felt very similar. Fiona (my wife) has Raichle hiking boots and they have been great, however the soles came off the first pair she got, after only 20 days of use. Yes I used them on the summit night, mostly on the lowest setting. In fact nearly half the the weight of the Millet boot. So I'd suspect they'd be plenty warm. Did you use them on the summit, and if so, would you care to comment on your experience with them? You could also wear these for trekking peaks in Nepal too. I agree that small feet can pose a challenge when the principal market for mountaineering boots are males. Regards Craig. This doesn’t seem to be common now. If this was your plan, then it’s possible that you might only do 1 acclimatisation trip through the icefall, in which case it may not be worth the weight and hassle of bringing an extra pair of boots up to C2. We jury rigged it but knocking out a tooth and putting the zipper back together…the second pair has been totally fine…but yes-it is a weakness in the design for sure. The alternative is the La Sportiva Olympus Mons EVO and at 5lbs 6oz for the pair, these are a lot lighter. The main protagonists are La Sportiva (Olympus Mons Evo), the Millet (Everest) and the Scarpa (8,000ers*). For the type of non technical climbing you are talking about it’s better to have a boot that is too large because it allows for more blood circulation and therefore will keep your feet warmer. Dan actually requests on the gear list that we use either a plastic double boot (Koflach style) or Millet One Sports. triple boots - Millet Everest and LS Oly Mons by HeyItsBen » Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:46 am 4 Replies 3420 Views Last post by HeyItsBen Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:58 am Spantik (44) vs Oly Mons (45) for 7000m by Karakorum-2 » Sun Dec 07, 2014 3:46 pm 7 Replies 2830 Views but i did climb rainier in the summer with just regular scarpa hiking boot with vibram soles while i saw some people in plastics over there-just can’t imagine doing that. i don’t have much experience with extreme cold and cant tell how my feet react to it. This item was previously owned for 5 months. Mons seems the best weight-wise, however i’m not sure if their smallest size would fit me. I will be doing the Muldrow glacier route on Denali in april/may of 2011. 1 color available. Hi Peter, Thanks for sharing your experience with these boots and I’ll keep my eye out for the new Scarpa Phantom boots. G2SM is pretty damn awesome, so am using those up to 6600m. Are you stupid? Any helpful comments gladly received. I was wondering if any of you guys can share your experience of frostbite recovery, I tried to search online but can’t find too much info other than the emergency care. Could I source suitable mouldable liner for something like an Olympus Mons shell? Also keeping all those batteries alive, it wound be interesting to get your thoughts on solar panels. At altitude you are more likely to have thicker socks, plus your feet swell and the closed cell insulation expands, all meaning that there is less room in the boot. That way if I feel my feet getting cold, I can quickly plug in the battery and warm them up. But if you do go with the Scarpa Phantom wouldn’t worry about it only having one zip. My concerns are: Will the mons be too warm lower? I figure this is better, but the choice is up to you. Personally I’d prefer to see adjustability here but it’s a fairly minor issue. Pair of expedition double boots with built-in gaiter, e.g. I can’t comment specifically on the Millet Alpinist GTX, other than I think that Millet make some great products. Gear. The Millet Everest is big, wide and a common complaint is that they are sloppy. Elena. so far LaSportiva Ol. We also did hyperbaric oxygen treatment twice a day for a month, although I’m not convinced of the efficacy of this. You definitely don’t want it too be too tight as this is a recipe for frostbite (that’s not how I got mine however). first, i’m a 115 pnd female with size 6.5 regular size feet looking for the most lightweight boot possible for denali. H Mario, I think La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX would be perfect boots to wear. I think you are right though to take into consideration your unique foot characteristics. I glanced out of my tent . What are you thoughts,recommendations pls. Lighter boots will save you a lot of effort, plus enable you to move faster, which is important through the icefall. In the past some boots used to come with a different inner boot (thinner) that was for use at higher altitudes (6000m+). If you were running, could you just use some sturdy trail running shoes up to Camp Berlin and then maybe some stiffer hiking boots if you knew that you wouldn’t be using crampons and the weather was good? The Olympus Mons Cube is an upgrade from the Olympus Mons Evo. Preamble … I am sure that you are well acquainted with the concept of layering – creating air pockets and trapping layers of warm air between garments – whether that be the upper body, legs, head or hands. can this package get lighter? When it’s time to put the boots on (the very last thing I do in the tent), I put the hand warmers in my gloves and hop into toasty boots. there is La sportiva nepal evo gtx and trango extrem evo lt gtx wich one is the best…and my foot size 43 2/3 so if i buy boots 44 2/3 it is good? This makes it easier to adjust the temperature and change them over. if so do you tie it through the big hole at the top or the 2 holes by the bottom . I am usually a UK size 7/ EU 41. first – I must say I found considerable amount of well earned info here over time. I don’t like my boots to be too stiff around the upper and ankles in particular. These liners combined with clean high quality socks will guarantee the most comfortable climb you will experience. I also get affected by the cold (especially since having had frost bite on my feet), so I know where you are coming from. Also the zipper isn’t protected by a baffle so there’s no ‘Plan B’ if the zipper should fail. Millet Everest-GTX Expedition Boots $800 - I have owned La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo (gave to my Sherpa) and Millet Everest One Sport (destroyed by United Airlines) but need to have a new pair for Vinson and Everest. This is especially important if I know that we are going to be starting early or that it’s going to be cold. A bent gate is much easier. [ ] Bowl, Cup, Spoon. Paul. Hi Guys Hope this finds you all well. (E.g. I’m interested about frostbite rehabilitation after you got home to be specific, like soaking you feet in warm water for 15 mintues every day,keep feet warm.. Thanks! The end outcome is that by holding onto this “handle” and flicking the fixed line you can clip and unclip very quickly when using large gloves, without needing to actually press the gate (the fixed rope presses on the gate). So I’d buy separate pants and a parka. The end result is a boot with huge room in the toe box (i.e. Designed with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, the La Sportiva G2 SM is being marketed as the ultimate boot for the serious high-altitude mountaineer. Your down jackets & gloves sound fine to me. Anyways , after came back home I was looking for warm boots when I came across this blog/forum. La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX with socks for under 8,000? Maybe you already answered that question but do you use Vapor Barrier Socks and what kind of layering system you use for the feets? Try it yourself with a fixed rope and let me know how you go (tie a long rope down at both ends, making it pretty tight – in the middle lifts off the ground no more than 50cm). Millet Everest will be overkill for Aconcagua and Elbrus, assuming you are climbing in a normal climbing season (summer). I’d still use light boots on the trekking peak, but I’d probably start from BC with my big boots. Your comment that the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX would be perfect has convinced me to purchase pair. I have tried on a La Sportiva Nepal Extreme in a 48 and it fits nicely but was worried about the warmth and much I could use it after Elbrus and its expensive here in S.A. The Millet Everest GTX still remains the most popular extreme altitude boot. I would recommend getting approx two sizes larger than what you normally wear, because you don’t want your boots to restrict your circulation. Dry boots are important because they are much warmer. I think that the VEGA HA will be adequate, but I’d suggest talking to Dan about it. They are a great boot and certainly one that will last. I have tried a few times making a vapour barrier by placing a very thin plastic bag between an inner sock and an outer sock. If you look carefully can already see that almost all the tread has disappeared. If you didn’t want to have to worry about the cold (or do feel the cold), but want lightweight boots, then buy La Sportiva Olympus Mons EVO, which weigh about the same as the Nepal EVO GTX, but are capable of going all the way to the summit. secondly, for less extreme cold climbs (Aconcagua, Canadian Rockies) what would be the lightest weight boot i could get away with without taking too much risk? La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Mountaineering Boot $1,199.00. That said, Attila, who climbed with La Sportiva One Sport Evo boots on Aconcagua this year, reckoned the temperature was so cold, he wouldn’t have got up, if he didn’t have them. Start with about 3 metres of 6mm climbing cord and tie one end into a carabiner using a clove hitch knot (This site has an example of a clove hitch being tied into a carbiner, except I tie it into the smaller side of the carbiner http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/learn_climbing_knots.asp).