If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. Not an issue with thinner half and twin ropes though. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. It’s not without a few drawbacks though. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. Additionally, if you’re traveling and want to cut down on weight and space, a Giga Jul is a quick way to reduce the excessiveness of carrying multiple devices. It's nice to have the extra margin of safety on double rope belays when there is loose rock/ice that could strike the belayer. See the rest of our 2016 Editors' Choice Award winners. For its diminutive size, a few testers said it felt heavy in the hand, but at 3.7 ounces, it’s comparable to many double-slot tubers (and half the weight of a Grigri 2). It took much longer than normal rappelling would. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. Simply put, it is like comparing rappelling with an ATC to rappelling in non-brake assisted mode on a Mega Jul. The most versatile ever belay device. Have Ederlid Giga Jul and I'm bit doubt if it does what it suppose to. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). I measured the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices and have summarized them in the below table. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. This means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the heavy side. Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. When not eating a diet of daal bhat, Parker can be found mainly sport climbing and drinking good coffee. In this sense the Mega Jul is like a Grigri and great for belaying people working projects. The new kid on the block. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). In this day and age, choosing belay devices can be a bit of a head-scratcher. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Of course this isn’t the only factor that determines the amount of friction developed by a given rope diameter but does provide some insight into which devices work better for thicker ropes and which for thinner ropes. T he Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. Pros: Intuitive and easy to use, very smooth assisted brake rappel, works great with half and twin ropes, Cons: Heavy, lots of friction with thicker ropes and top-down direct anchor belays. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. Edelrid has addressed this by designing the GigaJul to be a much slicker device. Edelrid says you can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes. Since the release of the gigajul, the grigri gets much less use, outside of single pitch sport cragging. I have tried three different carabiners and with no one it doesn't lock the rope. Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. This will stand out for those of you that are Mega Jul users. It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. Passive assisted braking 3. Overall: A very cool device that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing a quick and efficient yet smooth decent. The switch is simply moved to the “M” position and the device is rotated such that the black wire cover is situated behind the device next to the belayer. It couldn’t be easier. Plus, it’s made of stainless steel, which boosts durability into lifetime range. (function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true); Review: Mammut Taiss Mountaineering Boots, BD ATC Alpine Guide (half and twin ropes), Type: Tube-Style Belay Device with Optional Assisted Braking, Micro Jul: designed for half and twin ropes, Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. However, assisted braking devices have come a long way in recent years and are definitely worth considering the next time you replace your worn out ATC, Reverso or similar device. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. At a quick glance, it looks similar to a large version of Edelrid’s Mega Jul. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. The bottom edges have a slight bevel facilitating a smoother belay from the bottom. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. A definite lose-lose! I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. He is currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the development sector. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri , the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. The Mega Jul offers three rappelling modes. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). TR and Lead Belay in Manual Mode: When using the Giga Jul in the manual brake position to belay a lead climber it works much the same as any regular tube-style device. Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. Lastly, in auto-block or guide mode, the Mega Jul adds more friction to the pull than other plaquette devices, especially with fat ropes. Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. With a specific geometry for sport climbing, the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport has been designed for slicker belaying - including with thicker ropes - than the original Mega Jul to make it better for smoother, faster rope handling, but still retains the high-braking performance Quantity: Free shipping for this item Free store pickup Order online, get it at your local MEC. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. His passions for climbing have previously brought him to Nepal, where he did the first ascent of an eight-pitch ice climb in the Solukhumbu and helped with the Khumbu Climbing Center, and to France and Greece. The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. The lead mode was designed to feed rope out quicker to a leader. Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. Parker started climbing in high school through a program called the Junior Mountaineering Team. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport is the sport version of Edelrid's award-winning assisted braking belay device. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle.