You have assured superior fit and finish with my 40 years making knives. Here's the blade rotated to the closed position...about right before heat treating. I will attach the handle scales to the liners using super glue and a couple of 1/16" stainless pins. I do this by running the parts down a strip of sticky back sandpaper on top of a sheet of glass. Since most of my knives are pretty small, I prefer to grind after heat treating because I don't have to worry about the blade warping during the process. Notice that I've assembled it in open position. The worn out knife will usually give me a painful reminder that it no longer closes completely before it actually gets replaced. My patterns for the blade and backspring are clamped to the piece of steel. I also prepare a 0.002" shim to place between the blade tang and liner so I will not lock up the blade by peening it too tight. I only want to taper the hole part of the way in, so I used a piece of tape as a guage to keep me from going too deep. Filter By. I was thinking a longer knife than my first one that would be ideal for cutting fruit. I've decided to make a sodbuster pattern roughly based on an old eyebrand pocket knife I've had since I was a kid. We will never spam you, and you can unsubscribe at any time. Here are my stainless pouches containing the blades and springs placed in the kiln. You don't have to be a precision machinist to make one, but you do have to take care to be accurate. I've taken a pencil and marked a line on the liner at the bottom of the spring just below where that last hole is. I've got the holes drilled in my liners and have assembled the knife with temperary pins. This operation is done so that the tang of the blade blade does not get scratched up when you open and close the knife. "The strong double-bladed pocket knife is the best model I have yet found, and, in connection with the sheath knife, is all sufficient for camp use." I'm gonna clamp it here and drill the last hole and see how it works out. All Wedding & Party. Japanese kitchen knives seem mysterious and exotic to many people. While I'm thinking about it, I'm gonna mark the edge of the blade in preparation for grinding in the bevels. Another thing you don't want to forget to do before the steel is hardened. There is tension on the blade at this point. Now I have a nice round hole with a flat bottom. Also included is a tutorial on building a single blade slip-joint folder, without the use of a surface grinder or milling machine. I never imagined when I got "involved" with slip joints that I'd ever spend so much money on one knife. Maybe with a little more practice it will become second nature. Zero Tolerance 0230 Jens Anso Design Manual Opening Slip Joint Folding Knife. It's got a slip joint mechanism and a small lanyard that lets the knife slip in and out of the pocket easily. After cooling, the blades are placed in a toaster oven and tempered at 400 degrees for 2 hours. I don't have to worry much about that using this micarta. The Lockback Knife: From first Design to Completed Folding by Stefan Steigerwald Peter Fronteddu Spiral-bound $23.99 Back to the mill to cut in the nail nick. I cut a piece big enough to cover the liners and split it using my wood cutting bandsaw. It I try it now, I'll likely gall the inside of the spring where it is in contact with the blade. This reduces the amount of scale that is built up and simplifies cleanup afterward. If all goes right, the pin will blend in with the washers and will not be visible. Here's the roughed in grind. Then I go back to the drill press and drill the pivot hole out from the back side using the hole I drilled in the handle scale as a guide for the drill bit. Slip-joint Folder Designing and Building Steve Culver. $19.99. Paperback. 4.3 out of 5 stars 22. The original modern slip joint knife. What makes this model a bit more modern is the laminate powder 3G steel. Here it is with a 600 grit satin finish...so far so good. Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry Dr. Larrin Thomas. Modern knife locks can take a pounding before they break. Here's what it looks like now. Here's the sheet marked up and ready to cut. I've placed a 3/8" forstner bit in the drill press and adjusted the depth stop so it stops about 0.050" short of going thru the handle scale when I drill the pocket. Check back now and then as we are always adding more. I'll do that and also polish out the surfaces of the cuts down to 400 grit and finish profiling the parts on the horizontal grinder. Now to test the action. This will be my reference line. It worked pretty good! I wore out a couple of those over the years too. I did some trials using a dressed stone, but the nicks I cut this way had washed out corners, so I'm gonna give this a try. I'm really liking this new mill! $5.45 shipping. This simply means that instead of bolsters, it will have washers installed around the pivot pin on the outside of the handle scales. I'm new at building these slipjoints and am still learning something new with each one. With the center hole drilled thru the liners, I now put in a temperary pin to hold things in place. It'll take the hair off your knuckles if you forget to put on your gloves before reaching in...or so I've heard. So, I'm now going to concentrate on that part. $50.00. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution … I'll either have to do lots of grinding to thin it down, or I can try splitting it. The holes in the liners is used as the guide for the drill bit. The holes in the handle scales for the pins have been slightly reamed on the handle side to allow space for the pins to expand when I peen them. At the times of my life when my job required heavy duty knife use I usually resorted to an Schrade LB7 (similar to a Buck 110) for my forth blade. The excess glue that seeped thru the holes in the liners is cleaned up and the holes for the rest of the pins are drilled thru the handle scales. I'm planning to use 3/32" pins, so I drill pilot holes with a slightly undersized bit and then ream the holes to 3/32" with a straight reamer. One step eliminated. Small enough to fit in the palm of your hand, even when deployed, this offering from Columbia River Knife and Tool is a… It does have a glaring issue with the slip joint mechanism that makes closing it a bit of an issue. So I drilled the pin holes in the liners. I then grind it down to make it flush with the handle material. I made this one using photos of others I've seen as references. Makin progress! The stainless rod is then superglued into the pocket and the excess trimmed off on the bandsaw. Now I can separate the 2 parts on the bandsaw. Notice that I have a small bump right in the corner where the 2 cuts meet. I now have a 3/8" flat bottom pocket with a pivot hole in the center. I still have a lot of work to do on this prototype, but the parts are all fitted together, and the knife works well mechanically. $16.99. $5.50 shipping. I put the knife together using this pin material and cut the pins off just a little longer than the knife is thick. Now the other cut is made. The smaller pins that hold the handle scales on have been peened in place. $29.99. It is important when making a slipjoint folder that the blade and backspring are the same thickness and are as flat as possible. AL WARREN CUSTOM KNIVES offers a variety of quality, custom handmade hunting knives & pocket knives for sale. I use a drill press vise to hold the blade and move the blade into the cutter by hand. It's a pretty big folder, and I want to add a way of attaching a lanyard to it to make it easy to pick out of my back pocket. Its more famous brother has admittedly stolen most of the limelight from the Douk-Douk, though frankly I … 20 bids. Availability: Discontinued . I ground down almost to the scribed lines. Another neat trick I learned from another knife maker (thanks Bill). Here's a shot of the shim placed between the blade tang and liner. Here's a little better shot of the mosaic pin. There are a lot of little details in the way all the pieces of the design fit and flow together, and it’s one of the more comfortable knives to have in my pocket, in spite of its size. I've got about 1/16" of offset. About 0.010" deep should do it. I've also done a little shaping on the liners to remove material on the blade side...now it looks a little more like a knife. It is a pain when you remember to cut the choil after the blade has been hardened. The standard slip joint, whose backbar is a spring and must be free to move, can develop play on either side of the spring. 5 out of 5 stars (851) 851 reviews. I want the backspring to lie flush with the top of the liners when the knife is in both the open and closed position. Now there is something interesting to see when you look down into the knife. Now I'm ready to do some shaping and finishing. There are no set rules when it comes to designing a slip-back folding knife but there are some guidelines that could help one in starting out making a slip-back folding knife. I'm actually doing a small batch of knives at once to try to gain a little efficiency, so here I've scratched the number 1 on both the blade and spring so I can match them back up after heat treating. It's a pretty big folder, and I want to add a way of attaching a lanyard to it to make it easy to pick out of my back pocket. This item: Slip-joint Folder Designing and Building by Steve Culver Paperback $19.99 Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. Free knife design template of Japanese kitchen knives, western chef knives, and outdoor utility knives. If all goes well, I end up with a stainless washer with the pivot hole in the middle. Peening is done with a small ball peen hammer...the back side is supported on the flat part of my vise while doing this. I also took some time and made adjustments to the blade tang so that the spring is at the same height in both open and closed position...the rise and fall indicator has been very useful. I’m not sure pictures do it justice. I use the grinder for this as well. The photo show the pocket drilled out to accept the stainless rod. I'm new to making slipjoints and may find that I can dial this in a little closer, but I'm not comfortable with trying to get too close at this point in the process. These holes were then slightly countersunk on the inside surface so I can peen the pins in to make a tight fit. I use a piece of cratex in the drill press. I'll continue to refine the bevels making sure they match on both sides and keep stepping down with finer and finer belts to get a good satin finish on the blade. The spring is also sitting flush with the liners in both open and closed position now. The picture shows the results...handle scales glued to liners with all pin holes drilled out. Here she is...Finally!!!! Since this is intended to be a sure enough working knife, I've decided to make the handles out of some black canvas micarta. I oiled the area where the blade and spring make contact. This archive contains 104 templates and 300 drawings which have been scanned to scale to allow them to be printed as templates. They are then taken out to cool and the process is repeated for another 2 hours. The spring will flex in this thinner section and that will lighten the tension. A few more things to do before the parts are ready to be heat treated. Get early access to amazing experiences. I've pinned the two liners with the handle scales together and finished shaping the profile of the handles...especially on the side opposite the spine and around the rear where the lanyard extention will be...can't get to that part after the knife is put together. Again, the holes are reamed and deburred. The handle scale is then drilled through. The hardening temperature I will use is 1850 degrees F.  I'll hold them at that temperature for 20 minutes. I've taken an old worn grinding belt and ground a short bevel on the edge of the blade at about 45 degrees. I am pretty pleased with how this knife turned out. I think I'm gonna like this punch thing...quick and easy with no mess. I start by making the first cut using a cut off wheel in my drill press. The blade has to be under constant tension from the spring. Creating a folding knife adds a level of complexity and precision to knife making, and our course makes this achievable by anyone. The jig is called a rise and fall indicator and was originally thunk up by Bill Ruple if I'm not mistaken. I'm planning to put micarta or G10 handle scales on it and want a tough blade that will hold an edge well. Real Steel Luna Slip Joint Knife Jade G10 Handle Plain Edge D2 Blade. I also decided that I'd like to dress up one side of the knife by putting in a mosaic pin in the area where a shield would normally be. Notice that the backspring has a larger (5/32") hole at the rear for the lanyard. After working the shape down to where I like it and refining it with finer and finer sanding grits, I finished by hand sanding and buffing. Choosing an everyday carry (EDC) knife for jurisdictions with strict knife laws comes with its challenges. I have plans to make a slip joint soon and would like to make some sort of a Prototype to make sure everything works like it should before using all the nice materials. So rather than getting into all of that, I will use an old knife that I’ve taken apart as a pattern for the project. I repeat the process for the other handle scale. Remember the two parallel lines I scribed on the blade edge? ... With its clean design, the Kwaiken Folder is one of the most popular knives in the Boker Plus se.. ... Boker Plus 01BO630 Wasabi Slip Joint Folder. Now to put it together for the last time. I took the knife to the grinder and did some shaping and polishing. If one has a large slip joint knife that can handle reasonably heavy tasks, then ergonomics becomes a factor. First, I'll sand everything down to a nice even 400 grit finish. Here are the parts after they have been profiled out. It's not perfect, but I think it is a definite improvement over the ones I made before getting the milling machine and horizontal grinder. I put the pivot pin in and the rear pin in and then had to tap the center pin in because of the offset. I could do this using the same method as the first cut using a cut off wheel in the drill press, but now that I have a mill, I think I'll try something new. This website sells custom handmade fixedblade hunting knives and custom folding pocket knives made by Al Warren in Roseville, CA.. It has a Scandinavian grind to make it easy to carve with and easy to sharpen in the field. I darkened the edge with a sharpie and used the tip of a drill bit to scratch a couple of parallel lines down the length of the blade. I was thinking a precision ground O1 stell blade and spring, brass liners and … As a result, some manufacturers have returned to a classic design: the slip-joint folding knife, sometimes called a non-locking folder. Field and tactical, skinners, utility, and more - includes hidden and full-tang designs. 12 bids. $59.95 (You save $42.96 ) … Notice that I've thinned out an area just ahead of the hole on the right. Kissing Crane knife Yellow Handle 3 blade Whittler knife new in box. I'll adjust it some more later. One of the next pieces of equipment I would like to get is a rockwell tester so I can check the hardness and adjust when needed. Then the required holes are drilled out on the drill press. The Japanese Knife Maker Kansei Matsuno is a true master of his trade and his designs certainly sh.. I have a piece of precision ground D2 tool steel that is 0.095" thick...perfect. You can't see it in the photo, but I have a small gap at the bottom of the notch I cut in the blade...this is good and will make the blade nice and solid in the open position. So, I need to drill this hole a little higher than it sits now in order to have built in tension on the spring when the knife is put together. Here I've taken 2 pieces of the stainless sheet that I just cut and clamped them together. Design ideas and inspiration. I've decided to make a sodbuster pattern roughly based on an old eyebrand pocket knife I've had since I was a kid. Probably make more sense when you see the result. Then the final edge was put on. To dress up the inside of the liners, I decided to jewel them. I've not gotten into shields yet, so this will be my substitute. I've pulled the temperary pins and disassembled the knife so I can adjust the stiffness of the spring, but I think I'll relieve the liners first while I've got the knife apart. The Opinel No. Better start by saying that my method for doing this is not necessarily the best method. New Twosun Knives One Solid Titanium M390 Pocket SLIP JOINT Knife TS254-Solid. This reduces the hardness of the blades and makes them where they are not so bittle. So I had a punch made and this will be the first time using it too. The spring is a bit too stiff still, so I'll have to make an adjustment on the inside surface of the spring. Custom StatGear Ledge Slip-Joint Pocket Folding Knife Knives | D2 Steel, G10 Handle, Reversible Tip-Up Carry Pocket Clip Slip Joint CurateNYC. I couldn't get it to show up in a picture, so you'll have to take my word for it  :-). FAST 'N FREE. Features a dark grey bead blasted finish, with a minimal modern design. or Best Offer. This knife looks like a classic slip joint with a redwood inlay. Well, the photo turned out blurry, but you can at least see that there is a mosaic pin placed in this side of the knife. The holes were then slightly chamfered to remove burrs. Anyhow, I made one...it ain't pretty, but it works. It doesn't take long for the super glue to set. I grind most of my blades after heat treatment, so I've got to keep the blade cool or I risk ruining the temper. I need to drill the last spring hole thru the liners, but if I just drill it thru, there will be no tension on the spring and the knife will not work right. Larger slip joint knives are a somewhat different case. OK, now here's what it looks like. My kiln is programmable which makes this easy. In an earlier version of this post, a Quiet Carry but I believe its been discontinued. 2020 © The blade is placed on the stacked liners with a pin thru the pivot hole and the spring is clamped on. I got really tired of having to drag that thing out, etch a blade, and then clean the etcher back up again after each use. Paperback. It's not too clear in the picture, but if you look close, you can see my reference line on the liner. Now it's time to heat treat the parts. I clean up the spring notch on the blade with some sandpaper and elbow grease...can't get into the tight spaces on the grinder. From shop CurateNYC. Now for the maker's mark. By scratching the blade, turning it over and scratching again, I get 2 lines on the edge that are about 0.015" apart. Since the knife laws vary across the world, it was essential to also make a non-locking slip joint model to allow users in for example the UK to also carry this great design whilst staying within the law. It features lightweight Grade 5 titanium scales, Cherrywood inlays, and a short, but effective 2.35″ blade made from Sandvik 14C28N steel. All of us here have benefited from the generosity of some incredibly talented craftspeople. I don't like wimpy springs. But I still have to cut in the nail nick and put my mark on the blades before they're ready to go in the oven. Many slip joints come with a sub 3" blade, but this one at just shy of 3.5" is perfect for me. However, a lock will never cover errors in human judgment. As before, I drilled the hole a little undersized and then reamed it to the proper diameter. I'm using a dovetail cutter for the first time, so wish me luck. I've reassembled the knife with the temperary pins to check the spring tension...feels pretty good at this point. Alright, here's the result of all that peening. $27.49. Didn't know if my wood saw would handle this stuff or not, but by going real slow it did a pretty good job. Hey, it looks pretty good so far! It’s a pretty difficult task to explain the geometry involved in making a slip joint pocketknife. OK, so the new mill and horizontal grinder are set up and ready to go...time to get busy making some new slipjoint folders. Now I've got to cleanup the parts again. CRKT Quill Slip Joint Knife Steigerwalt Design CRKT. I stacked the liners together using the temperary pins and drilled both at the same time to ensure they match. In the past, I've been etching my mark into the blade using an electric etcher and stencil. It's a slow process...the object is to swell the head of the pins on both sides of the knife enough to pull the knife together nice and tight. I still have to put in the decorative mosaic pin and peen the handle scales pins. Inspired by the classic slip-joint style, WESN’s Henry is still a modern knife by all measures. I use the little piece of titanium as a backer for the sandpaper. There are other ways to do this, but I find that using this method it's easy for me to keep the cut square with the flats of the blade. I'm about to drill the hole for the pin that goes thru the center of the spring. Prior to heat treating, I want the spring to be about 0.020" higher in the closed position. Condition: New. I know, I'm jumpin around all over the place, but I'm new to making these and haven't done it enough to make it flow really well. OK, so far so good. For now, I'll have to rely on the published data and hope things turn out right. I have a rotary vise installed on the mill table and have offset the cutter from the center. I place a temporary pin thru the pivot hole in the liner and apply glue to the liner surface. Learn about some of the common mechanisms used in locking and non-locking folding knives before beginning the process of making your own single blade slip joint folder. It's important to get the blade and spring positioned right. Once I saw what went into hand making a slipjoint I didn't have a big problem putting the money into a custom knife. I will also slightly chamfer the holes I drilled to reduce the chances of having stress risers when I heat treat the steel. While this was going on, I placed the springs back in the kiln to temper at a much higher temp than I can get with the toaster oven. I just need some pieces big enough roughed out on the bandsaw. Now that I've separated the spring and blade, it's time to cut the notch in the blade where the backspring sits. 70 sold. Though stingy with his words, he did include an illustration of a relatively large slipjoint fitted with a clip blade on one end and a spear-point blade on the other. 8 is a traditional knife patterned after peasants’ knives found in France and much of Europe hundreds of… ... Kershaw Culpepper Slip Joint Knife Black G-10 (3.25" Satin) 4383. ... “The internal spring takes up more room and thereby creates issues with designing a knife for it.” Conversely, it challenges makers to devise new designs, which is always good for the knife industry. Most the knives I sell are through this website, so I only do 3 or 4 shows per year. I will make the washers out of some 3/8" 416 stainless steel rod. I start by cleaning up the inside of the spring on the horizontal grinder. I've clamped the handle scales down to keep them from moving. The blade and spring flats are cleaned up  using the sandpaper on the glass trick. 4.9 out of 5 stars 234 # 1 Best Seller in Metal Work. Here's a quick look at how the knife is shaping up. Now I'll pull the pins out and deburr the liners and spring (back to the sandpaper on the glass) then reassemble to test the spring. I like the look of Coke bottle or Fiddle back folders, and have taken a stab … Here's the result...both liners have been relieved around the pivot. Not only does it seem exotic to western eyes, but it is an example of form and function defined by manufacturing technology and a culinary tradition that is markedly divergent from the western experience. Here's the sheet I have, but it is too thick at 3/8". These designs are suitable for anyone with a drill press and some basic hand tools. The James Brand is known for its stylish and useful designs, and the Pike, a modern traditional knife, fits right in with its clean, sleek, organic design. Their most characteristic feature is their design language - in particular the blade geometry. However, the Fallkniven U1 is a worthy addition. $4.20 shipping. The drill bit is slightly bigger than my blade is thick. Douk-Douk Traditional Slip Joint Folding Pocket Knife – Amazon / Blade HQ When thinking about inexpensive carbon steel folders from France the obvious example is the iconic Opinel . COVID-19 status: Courses are up and running! This knife is 8 3/4" long in open position, 5" closed and the blade is 3 3/4" from tip to scales. I then use the straight reamer to ream the hole to proper size. All Rights Reserved. The parts are sealed in the pouch to keep oxygen away from the blade while it is in the oven. I've got a pretty good fit now between my blade and backspring in the notch. Lock design and quality has improved significantly over the last few decades. I use the new mill for this procedure...another of the reasons for the mill purchase. This doesn't have to be exact, so a pencil mark works fine. I've just taken the pouches out of the kiln and placed them between aluminum plates to cool. I've gotten it on a little too thick, but wanted to make sure the lines would show up in the photos. The … I start by creating a pouch using stainless steel foil. This is a prototype of a new design I worked up to see if I could eliminate the 90-degree corner at the joint that is often left exposed with a slip-joint. The corners are nice and sharp. I think I try that first. $30.00. First step is to decide on a pattern and then pick a suitable steel to use for the blade and backspring. Mill makes a nice square cut and the finish left is easy to polish down. I've removed the blade and pivoted the rear of the spring slightly up. Because the first cut is slightly angled back, and the second cut is also slightly angled up, there is no way to get right in the corner with the mill. I'm not going to move the blade out of this position until I have ground off the excess material that was left on the top of the backspring. Now I have two pieces that are just at the right thickness. According to the technical information I could find on D2 steel, this should work well for folder springs. Ending Today at 1:00PM PST 46m 41s. At this point, I've been working with steel in it's annealed (soft) state. It’s also available in a full-titanium version for $20 more. The springs have to be softened where they will bend, but not break. I'll have to file that away. The blade came screaming sharp, the fit and finish is fantastic, and the micarta feels so good in the hand. I then remove the forstner bit and install the undersized bit I used to drill the pivot holes in the blade and liners. The hollow grinding is done on the belt grinder using an 8 inch contact wheel. Here's the spring after making the adjustment to lighten the tension. It is only a small sample of his work - much of it is unrecorded. A slipjoint knife is one of the most ubiquitous types of pocketknives.A slipjoint knife consists of a handle with one or more folding blades. It is a little harder on grinding belts, but even if I ground them prior to heat treating I'd have to do the finish grinding afterward anyway. I'm gonna try 1125 degrees for 2 hours and see how that works. The remaining 3 larger pins will hold the 2 halves of the knife together. Prior to pinning the knife together permanently, I've used a tapered reamer on the pivot hole to make space for the pivot pin to swell into when I pein the knife together. I then drilled out a hole for the pivot pin that will go thru the blade. With that said, here we go... First step is to decide on a pattern and then pick a suitable steel to use for the blade and backspring. Tharwa Valley Forge. After making sure the handle scales and liners are nice and flat, I glue the scales to the liners using super glue. These are the smaller holes at the midline of the liners. Back to the spring adjustment thing...while I'm at the grinder adjusting the spring tension, it's a good time to adjust the tang of the blade so that the spring is the same height in the closed position as it is in the open position. It is not necessary to draw the outline to scale at this stage - it is more important for you to be creative in your … I did this using a forstner bit just like the pivot washers were done. I thought you might find it interesting to see the process I use to make one of these, so I decided to take a few pictures as I go along. It doesn't take much to bring the parts back to where they were prior to the heat treating process. Kizer Zipslip The spring is still a bit stiff, but that's the way I want it on this big knife. I also need to dress up the inside of the liners prior to putting the knife together. A non-locking knife demands respect, because if you don't, there is the possibility of it … Bladesmiths are particularly reliant on the generosity of other makers when they are first starting out. The West is streamlined and lightweight making it ideal for everyday carry. Stuff is tough as nails. This is a tribute to Lloyd Harding, Western Australian Master knife maker, 1921 to 2003. Ive been enjoying making slip-joints based on a design published in this book for the last few months, and have been wanting to get away from using another makers design. Improved nail nicks is one of the main reasons I decided to purchase a milling machine. Folding knives have been around since at least the year 600 BCE. Only 6 left in stock - order soon. Here's the blade after that cut is made. I have a bucket of water next to the grinder and frequently dunk the blade. I use a piece of tape to help me keep the grinds lined up on both sides of the blade. To that end, the liner on top of the photo has an additional hole drilled...I'll use this hole to place the mosaic pin later. Then it will be time to pin the knife together permanently. Boker Plus 01BO069 Slack Slip Joint Folder. Now, that's better. The choil is the notch that will separate the cutting edge of the blade from the tang. I use some 3/32" 416 stainless rod for the remaining pins. OK, now lets make some liners for this folder. So here's what the handle scales look like at this point. Oh well, it is easy to file that little corner out. Written by Mastersmith Steve Culver, this handy book covers all of the design elements crucial to designing the joint mechanism of a slip-joint folder. When you start with your design use a blank sheet of paper and make a free hand sketch of ideas for the outline of your knife. Here are the liners after jeweling. I'm gonna use some 410 stainless sheet that is 0.040" thick to make these. A slip joint forces you to really think about what you are trying to accomplish. It's especially tricky when using fragile handle material so you quit before you split the material. Here's what the parts look like after being tempered. VINTAGE CASE XX USA 62134 "CANOE" FOLDING 2 BLADE JIGGED HANDLE KNIFE 1965-69. It should be noted that each type of steel used in knife making may have it's own heat treatment "recipe". I've done this to keep from scraping the abrasives off my grinding belt when I start hollow grinding the blade. SKU: CR6404. $115.50. The relationship between the spring and the tang of the knife is very important. As it is right now, that spring is way too stiff for me to cycle the blade from open to closed position. This will do. It is the perfect blend of a traditional slip joint, and modern materials and design. CRKT Quill Slip Joint Knife Steigerwalt Design. Usually, the blade must be short. Might as well cut the choil now while I'm thinking about it. For the knife I will be designing in this tutorial I was inspired by a Reese Bose Shadow pattern construction folder. Here's a view of the open profile...time to grind the blade. Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. It's important to leave a little extra "meat" on the blade tang (part around where the pivot pin goes) to allow for adjusting the fit of the blade and spring later in the process. This is the part that is really fun for me as I get to see the knife "come to life" so to speak. This should put enough tension on the spring...it may put too much tension on it, but I can adjust for too much, too little and I'll have to cut new liners and start this process over. I placed the nick out close to the tip of the blade thinking that this would give more leverage when opening the knife as I'm hoping to have a spring that's slightly on the stiff side. Create your own unique website with customizable templates. Now it's time to do a little fitting. Then the handle scale is lined up using the pin and centered on the liner. I've covered the piece of steel with blue dye to make it easy to see my scribe lines when it's time to cut out the parts. Many such knives may have blades and frames sturdy enough to do at least medium duty cutting, while the most robust models can do relatively heavy work. This is a two step process...first the steel has to hardened and then tempered. I can now lower the cutter and rotate the table to make a built in washer so to speak on the liner. Notice that the cut is slightly angled to the back...more about that later. As anyone who has done one of our courses will attest - we have no secrets at Tharwa Valley Forge. I think you can buy these now but they are kinda expensive. I cut most of the waste away using my bandsaw, then took it down to the scribe line on the mill. I can always take off more, but putting more on is more trouble :-). What you see in the photo is a jig I made to help me get this adjusted to the point I'm comfortable with before I heat treat the steel and put tension on the spring. Slip Joint Knives do not give a false sense of security. I start by laying the handle scale on the liner and marking where the pivot hole will be. Before removing the clamps, I scribe a line around both of the parts using the pattern templates. The knife is going to be what is called a shadow pattern knife. The aluminum plates do 2 things...they pull the heat out of the steel and cool the steel quickly (very important) and they keep everything nice and flat (no warpage). After completing both handle scales to this point, I'm ready to glue the scales onto the liners. I use the open position as the reference point and adjust the closed position to match. The hole in the spring is used as a guide and both liners are drilled thru. I modified the ram in this little arbor press to hold the punch while I give it a good whack. Heat treating will come a little later. Looks good. I took a slip joint class with Bill Ruple and Rusty Preston in TX and met Enrique Pena while there. Here's a pic of the knife with the excess material ground off of the spine. In this spirit we are pleased to host a library of our own knife designs and templates, free for anyone to learn from and use.